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The Icon Bar: General: Sad day. Non working A3010.
 
  Sad day. Non working A3010.
  Zarchos (13:24 26/2/2014)
  apdl (13:36 26/2/2014)
    Zarchos (15:20 26/2/2014)
      apdl (15:55 26/2/2014)
        Zarchos (17:03 26/2/2014)
          apdl (08:04 27/2/2014)
  CJE (14:58 26/2/2014)
 
Xavier Louis Tardy Message #123071, posted by Zarchos at 13:24, 26/2/2014
Member
Posts: 47
Hi people.
It should have been a nice day today, as I received an A3010 with 512 Mbytes SD card, and 4 Mbytes RAM.

Unfortunately it doesn't work.
Symptoms : I switch the commie on and nothing happens (no beep, no keys lighting).

I had the great idea to open it before switching it on, as I know what it means when a parcel has been travelling from the UK to France.
The IDE cable between the interface and the SD card adaper was disconnected, so I connected it back.
Unfortunately I had not noticed the IFEL 4 Mbytes upgrade (http://acorn.chriswhy.co.uk/docs/IFEL/IFEL_A30104MBRAMUpgrade.pdf) had 'jumped' from its socket and was stuck in the bottom right part of the casing, and I switched the A3010 on in that state, but I don't think it caused any damage as no pins were in contact with chips on the motherboard.
I pulled the memory module back in place after checking the pins were perpendicular, I checked the keyboard socket was properly plugged, to no avail.
Then I withdrew the IDE interface with the SD card, withdrew the memory upgrade and put back the jumpers to 1 Mbyte configuration, checked the fuse in the power plug and ... nothing.

Any help from you to know where I could test voltage on the motherboard is welcome.
thanks a lot in advance,
Xavier.

I also received today a strongly upgraded RISC PC from the same Ebay seller, I think I'm going to completely disassemble it before swithching it on ;-(
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David Holden Message #123072, posted by apdl at 13:36, 26/2/2014, in reply to message #123071
Member
Posts: 138
It takes quite a lot of force to unplug the IFEL 4MB upgrade card so this implies that the machine has been seriously mishandled in transit.

Unfortunately A3010/A3020 have a transformer power supply and the transformer is attached to the motherboard only by its leads. If the computer is dropped upside down from any height then these leads can be ripped out of the transformer, resulting in a dead computer. So I'd suggest the first thing you check is the output from the PSU. I think there are 5v and 12v test points on the PCB.
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Chris Evans Message #123074, posted by CJE at 14:58, 26/2/2014, in reply to message #123071
CJE Micros chap
Posts: 198
To be careful if opening an A3010 or A3020, as the PSU inside is not cased. So you can get an electric shock easily!
  ^[ Log in to reply ]
 
Xavier Louis Tardy Message #123075, posted by Zarchos at 15:20, 26/2/2014, in reply to message #123072
Member
Posts: 47
David, Chris, thanks for your help.

I wanted to avoid to remove the lid and check the power supply but let's face it : it's in reality the 1st place and most obvious place to look with the issues the commie has.
Unfortunately I think to remove the lid one must completely dismantle all parts in the casing, it's why I'd prefer checking voltage test points on the main PCB.

Dave, you're not quite right about the memory module : it's not 2 zip chips firmly inserted in the sockets : it's a daughterboard and the pins are very short, just about 4 millimeters, and even when I plugged the module in the 2 sockets, I noticed it was not at all firmly inserted, I thought if later on the commie would revive, I would always fear memory issues with contacts that are not neat/frank.

More tonight as I'll have some time to do the job.

Thanks again,
Xavier.

[Edited by Zarchos at 15:26, 26/2/2014]
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David Holden Message #123076, posted by apdl at 15:55, 26/2/2014, in reply to message #123075
Member
Posts: 138
David, Chris, thanks for your help.

I wanted to avoid to remove the lid and check the power supply but let's face it : it's in reality the 1st place and most obvious place to look with the issues the commie has.
Unfortunately I think to remove the lid one must completely dismantle all parts in the casing, it's why I'd prefer checking voltage test points on the main PCB.
Sorry, I'm not sure I understand this unless by 'lid' you mean the metal frame which supports the kbd, floppy drive and covers the PSU.

It's actually very easy to remove. Just remove the keyboard, the 3 screws along the front, unplug the floppy drive leads and it will then slide towards the front and can be removed (you'll also then need to unplug the speaker cable.

Dave, you're not quite right about the memory module : it's not 2 zip chips firmly inserted in the sockets : it's a daughterboard and the pins are very short, just about 4 millimeters, and even when I plugged the module in the 2 sockets, I noticed it was not at all firmly inserted,
I know exactly what the IFEL 4MB upgrade looks like and it's only the 2MB upgrade which consists of 2 chips, the 4MB upgrades require the PCB which bridges both sockets. This should be quite a firm fit and because it's very light it takes very rough handling to shake it out, which is why I suggested checking the transformer.
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Xavier Louis Tardy Message #123077, posted by Zarchos at 17:03, 26/2/2014, in reply to message #123076
Member
Posts: 47
Yes Dave the 4Mbytes upgrade bridges both sockets but I can assure you the IFEL module pins are not more than 4 mm long, and when I plugged it back I could then very easily remove it ...
It is also possible the sockets on the PCB didn't age well ie the small metallic female parts are loose.
Sorry for the inadequate vocabulary, I hope you understand what I mean (and again : thanks for your help. I'll remove the metal frame tonight to access the PSU and check voltage, fuse, and switch, and report here).

OK so here is the report : in the PSU, fuse and switch are OK, and the power cord ends (2 wires + earth wire) are correctly plugged/attached.
I found on the motherboard some testing/reference points with 0V 5V 12V and I read 0V when testing them.
I decided to slightly move the capacitors in the PSU and the surrounding area, to no avail.
Most of the time the PSUs produce a light buzzing sound when in use and here not at all.

Some good news for the day : the RPC does work and it's a real beast with Viewfinder (upgraded), Unipod, and an ultra fast APDL StongArm ... and a powerful and silent PSU, I love it.

[Edited by Zarchos at 21:52, 26/2/2014]
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David Holden Message #123078, posted by apdl at 08:04, 27/2/2014, in reply to message #123077
Member
Posts: 138
OK so here is the report : in the PSU, fuse and switch are OK, and the power cord ends (2 wires + earth wire) are correctly plugged/attached.
I found on the motherboard some testing/reference points with 0V 5V 12V and I read 0V when testing them.
I decided to slightly move the capacitors in the PSU and the surrounding area, to no avail.
From what you've said I'm still inclined to suspect a damaged transformer. Try holding the transformer and see if it feels solidly attached to the motherboard or if it will move slightly. If you can feel any movement then you may have problems.

It's easy to remove the motherboard and metal tray it's attached to. There are two recessed hex headed screws you will see underneath the casing near the transformer. Just remove these and the whole assembly can be removed end you'll then be able to see under the transformer.
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The Icon Bar: General: Sad day. Non working A3010.